The choice of building your own greenhouse is an easy decision to make, and is not as hard as you may think. As with any project, simply break it into steps and do not be confused. While the building itself can be done in two days with a helper. I chose to go it alone and enjoy the process more than two weeks … with an unplanned four-week break due to heavy rains and frost then weighed, and then heavier rains – if thought it would go to perfection, mother nature has its own ideas.
This is a design of 12’x24 ‘with a height of 6’8 “. You have to keep the doors open throughout the summer, and closed most of the winter. In total is just under 300 feet square. I have a table game, some tools and a few chairs to take it easy with family and enjoy the view, so it is closer to 200 square feet of space for growth. still, a lot for me.
Tips for choosing your site:
- First, always have to run this east to west so the southern sun can get through the long side.
- If you are in the northern states you will want to avoid the shade until about 4 or 17:00 during the summer.
- If it is below 40 degrees latitude, the sun is very intense and any poorly designed greenhouse can cook your plants.
- Because this design does not include parts that roll, southern residents want to incorporate a couple of times in which there will be shade of a tree or other structure. It’s hot in North Carolina in general and in summer have a Hickory tone from 9am to noon, and birch shade from 4 pm to 6 pm. This cools the interior significantly, and the use of trees is a great idea because the leaves fall and get more heat in the winter lights.
- Use of an immovable structure for shade can create unwanted cold in the winter. Keep this on the north side to block the wind and trap heat behind him.
- level pick a point, or one that can be leveled.
- pick a place that is the highest slope of any drainage area as hills or ditches, you do not want the water they are in order to achieve its roots and soggy.
- Notice on the left edge of the photo that the lowest point of the afternoon sun in winter still simply touch the edge of the greenhouse. Five left feet would have been a poor choice. Honestly, it took me two years looking at light angles to find out where it should go, so do not rush.
Tips for Preparing the land:
- you will need to spend some time preparing the ground if the ground soil as a base layer is used. This will include tillage at any time growing.
- You can also deploy the fabric and put soil on top, but I feel that limits the cultivation of plants with deep roots.
- Then you need to check the pH of the native soil and modify as needed. A soil sample is not necessary because this layer will be below 4 to 6 inches of good topsoil to be brought.
- Try not to mix the native land with the things that bring – this will keep weeds and help control soil diseases
- I built mine in early spring and wood ashes left over amend the soil and adjust the pH used. I thought it was a great natural and sustainable choice in the use of lime. I also made a bonfire in the middle with cut branches of a nearby birch, as an equally sustainable option for amending the soil. He went from 5.2 to 6.5.
Note: All wood used is pressure treated and should be left out of the rain away from the site greenhouse for a few weeks. If you can afford cedar or lobster and then do it, but it certainly will be more than $ 500 if you are trying to certify organic, or go 100% organic, you can not use pressure-treated wood, but this design still work great for whatever you choose!
The base frame
- 2x6x12 have 6 pieces.
- Scab both together with a 2 × 4 to make a single length of 24 ‘-. Repeat for the other side
- form a rectangle with boards over your site.
- check to make sure that the frame is square up – screw on the east side, participation in the corners to hold it while the west side, then adjusted, participation side (place stakes of temporary wood on the outside of framework)
- Using 3 “screws connecting the tables as shown – 12” long must be within the long sides so the rings will be exactly 12 ‘away, ensuring proper head space in the vault
- Admire the perfect form all angles are correct that are not and take a break.
The hoop rebar anchors
- will have 26 pieces of 2 feet. Reinforcing steel or rebar. Use ½ “(10 mm) of steel 10 feet and shopping. Pieces if you can. If you have to buy 2 ft. Pieces are pre-cut to go over budget.
- Set rods and cut into 2 feet. pieces with a jigsaw (use a metal cutting blade, $ 3)
- rebar 1/8 “away from the side of the lower frame, 2 feet. Intervals, starting and stopping at the corners Libra. The gap is space for the ring to slide over.
Let’s plant the door in hollow concrete poles and then attach it to the bottom of the frame. This is a key part of the factor “windproof”. These doorframes also strengthened against the posts of the song, and did not move a bit stiff in a wind of Carolina.
- need (5) 2x4x8 and (2) 50-pound bags of concrete.
- Build the door 3 ‘wide and 8’ high using a top header and leaving the bottom open end.
- Find the center of the Middle West and bottom frames.
- Marcos 1’6 “in each direction, this is the tie in points for the uprights of the door frame.
- dig a “hole 1’6 flush with the right end wall where marked for asparagus.
- plant door in the post holes.
- Make sure it is level using the bedside table.
- Make sure the top and bottom bolts are equidistant to the door it continues smoothly.
- screw studs of the bottom of the frame board 2x6x12.
- Pour concrete into the postholes and let cure 1-2 days.
- prop with 2 × 4 to keep the lead during drying.
This house includes a central ridge ring with center posts. If you are not in a windy area, you can give this up, but I would not recommend it. the durability of the house will increase, and that will make your plastic last longer. However, it takes away from what some people like a hoop house, which is all that open space. However, I go out with one or two other people there very well.
- is required :. (2) 4x4x8 of (3) 2x6x8 (3) 50-pound bags of concrete (6) 2 x 6 framing marks
- Dig holes send eight feet away from the edges of the doors where they will.
- Set the development of supports for the 2 × 6 ridges center. One in each door frame and two on each post (photo).
- Make sure you are exactly center -… 8 feet and 6 feet the door side
- Mix 1 bag of concrete.
- 4x4x8 Place in the post holes.
- pour the concrete and let cure for 1-2 days. I was running to beat a week of rain, so I covered with plastic mine.
- Attach 2 × 6 with a lower cutting edges for stability (see photo) and to maintain uninterrupted song for placement of the hoop.
- Before the rings go out you will need to add soil. Select a good landscape supplier and take a look at the topsoil before buying. Not all “topsoil” is topsoil.
- If you save room for a table and chairs and then 3 yards will do, if you need full 4-yard whole thing.
- At the top soil, add 5 bags of peat moss, 6 bags of mushroom compost and 6 bags of potting soil. (Or you may have your own mix of magic, I say go for it!)
- Until everything evenly, avoiding the base layer of native soil and possible weeds / diseases.
- Go to supply store near real plumbing (not an ace or Lowe, no offense simply will not have it) and buy 13 pieces of 20 feet ¾ “Schedule 40 PVC.
Note: Any use supply store should be able to deliver that much to you, but it can be a day or two. If not, you will have to mount the special vehicle, a trailer, or a little ingenuity to bend in a van. It is a serious in most states travel with an improperly secured cargo crime, so please use common sense. DO NOT set 10 feet. parts as an alternative solution, they will join in the joint project.
- Place one end of the rebar and push it about 1 inch on the ground, firmly planted.
- grab the other end and put it on the ridge line to the stake and rebar plant firmly opposed.
- Repeat with all the hoops, taking care not to handle them too, causing damage or cracks.
- The use of metal strips, secure the ring to the center line of the ridge, but leave a little loose.
- Once all the hoops are tied, look down at the sides to make sure they are uniform and adjust as needed.
- Once all the hoops are even, back to the straps and tighten the screws so that the rings are immovable, but not too tight as this is metal on plastic.
- Run duct tape high quality on the top half of the ring, including the metal strips. This will remove a chemical reaction between polyvinyl PVC pipe. Without it, your guarantee of greenhouse film is void. You can also purchase rolls of felt from suppliers greenhouse … but again, you can put over budget. When viewed in a affordable DIY conservatory which would duct tape he knew her committed anyway! Plus it looks great (see photo).
Just a heads up, this is a difficult step and I called a friend to help keep things.
- need (10) 2x4x6.
- Make four small blocks as illustrated and screw on the lower side frame. It is tight against the first ring. This is where the end wall will tie in, so it is possible, without damaging the rim in the process.
- Measure the distance between the block and bolt the door and cut a 2 × 4 to place flush with the ground. This is your board lower threshold.
- The ring passed from the end wall must ensure door and screwed so that it is flush with the outer edge of the door jamb.
- Place two more headers and plugs as shown in the photo at right, spacing them evenly. No precise measurements down to 1/8 “were included as each generation is inherently different, and may want a wider door or something else.
- Correa rings end to the corners of the new frame, making sure that it rests on top, and flush with the outer edge.
This step requires additional help, ideally 3 people. Do so on a hot day so the plastic can stretch. You can find many suppliers online, just make sure it is designed for this purpose and not just a cheap plastic roll. Use no less than 6 mil thick polyvinyl and no more than 11 thousand. The “woven” words, “UV” and “anti-drip” are all good signs. Here is where I recommend it for a great price and quick for a high quality product shipment.
- You will need to roll the 20’x44 ‘. (3) wood lathe packages (1) Box broad head galvanized roofing nails.
- Roll film on a safe surface in the sun to let it stretch.
- Spread the film on the greenhouse effect and ensure a strong side with around top bottom frame strips. Notice how clean the edge should be (pictured right).
- Move across the greenhouse and securing the other side firmly with one side strips around of the lower frame. Mayor Tip: On a hot day, back and tighten down the top by removing around one strip at a time and re-nailed at the top – you only need to press this side, and this is the best way to prevent unattractive sagging in the summer.
- Attach the plastic at the head of the door and the horizontal braces on each side.
- holding down, move the door clearance so it looks like a window and nail it to the uprights of the door.
- cut the plastic door.
- Nail down the rest of the plastic for manufacturing, making sure it is tight.
- staffer pulled around the corner and nailed on the outside pole.
- Then I threw him back on the lathe in that bolt to tighten the panel near the door
- Then I put a second piece on the first round. This is the best way we found to look good and stay tight.
- kill it nailing the bottom frame.
need a good eye or skills that frame for this step. Make sure the hinges are for outdoor use and measurements are accurate. Leaks in the winter can only come from your door with this design.
- using four squads, but any robust design work.
- Once the door is mounted on hinges and put check bolt the door accurately.
- Attach your door and ensure a good swing and the board (still probably need some type of weatherstripping here and there).
- Close the door and using plastic cutting the door frame, nail down with strips around.
- Attach handles on both sides, and a latch. I put a latch inside and outside on both doors, so you can always block if I’m in the race.
- Go inside, close the doors, and feel the heat buildup. You’ve done it!
you just built this thing to trap heat, and now looks stunning, they will block the sun. Even in commercial greenhouses shade cloths are deployed each year. Grab a couple of rolls of felt landscaping, specifically dark gray woven fabric used for weed tamping. Run this tissue between the plastic and the rings. Bits of them zipped linked to the penultimate ring at each end. Using three or four running almost the entire length. This will create enough shade to cut the temperature 10 to 15 degrees in the summer. Add a run time midday to help cool down, making sure the plastic gets wet to dissipate some of the heat. This will at most will cost $ 30 at Lowe, while the majority cloth curtain is more than $ 100. Realize my shade cloth is mainly oriented to the south.
There are no limits to your imagination now, I even planted some dwarf sunflowers in mine – an eye catcher safely. Let us know how your building!
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